Contractors often write their measurements directly on wall studs or drywall sheets so they always know the location of their measurements. Consider following this practice so you don't lose track. Calculate the square footage of the area you're drywalling. This calculation tells you how many drywall sheets to buy. The formula for square feet or meters is length x width.
Using this formula, calculate the square footage of each wall and the ceiling separately. For instance, if you measured 84 in cm , that is 7 ft 2. Average drywall sheets are 8 ft 2. After calculating the square footage of the ceiling and each wall, divide each number by This will tell you how many drywall sheets you need for each section.
So if your ceiling is 8 ft 2. Buy a few more sheets than you need to ensure you have enough if you make any mistakes. Remove all ceiling and wall fixtures if applicable. Some ceilings have light or smoke detector sockets installed, and walls may have electrical outlets or switches. Use a screwdriver and carefully unscrew these fixtures. Store them safely so you can reinstall them later.
To be extra safe, turn off the circuits for this room in your breaker board. Remember to tuck away all wires that are sticking out after you remove these fixtures.
Tucking them behind the rafters in the ceiling or wall studs will keep them out of the way of any screws when you start installing the drywall. Measure and mark down the distance from the wall to all ceiling fixtures. This is so you can cut holes where light fixtures are. Use a grid pattern to get their exact location.
Measure the distance from the closest wall to the center of the fixture. Then measure the distance from the next closest wall to the center as well. Write this measurement down so you remember after you install the drywall. If you complete the installation and then make a mistake while cutting, you might have to redo the whole job. Method 2. Drill a wood block 2 in 5. Take a wood block about the length of the wall you're working on. Press this block 2 in 5. If your wood is 2 in 5.
If you don't have a wood block long enough, use a smaller piece and move it around as you need. Drill a 1 ft 0. This is another trick for doing this job alone.
Measure 4 feet 1. At this point, use a 5 in 13 cm screw and screw the wood block to the ceiling rafter. This should allow the block to rotate in all directions. You can install as many of these blocks as you need. Whenever you need some extra support, drill one down and rotate it so the drywall rests on the block. These blocks are especially useful for when you have to drill screws into the drywall and may need both hands.
Start at the corner of the ceiling. The idea when hanging drywall is installing as many complete sheets as possible before cutting any sheets. Hang the first drywall sheet in the corner so you can cover as much of the ceiling as possible with complete sheets. As you proceed, move forward from this first sheet. This adds more work and time, and if you make mistakes when cutting you'll have to buy more drywall! Rest the end of the drywall on the block on the wall while fitting it into place.
Grab one end of the drywall sheet and start lifting it up to the ceiling. Lift the far edge up to the wooden block that you attached to the wall and rest it there. Push the drywall firmly onto the ceiling. While the drywall is supported by the wood block and your hands, start climbing the ladder and guide the drywall to the ceiling.
Position sheet snugly into the corner of the ceiling. For extra support, drill more wood blocks to the ceiling and rotate them to hold the drywall. Drill 1 screw through the drywall into each rafter in the ceiling. This practice marks the rafters so you can drill the rest of your screws later on.
While the end of the drywall rests on the wood block and you use one hand to hold the drywall onto the ceiling, use your free hand to hold your power drill. At the edge closest to you, fasten the drywall to the ceiling with 1 screw in each rafter. Avoid any of the ceiling fixtures that you made note of before.
Use coarse-threaded screws for drywall installation. Screws come on many lengths. Drill 4 more equally-spaced screws into the drywall for each rafter the sheet covers. Follow in a straight line proceeding from the first screw you drilled through the drywall. Juicing can be a great way to squeeze in your daily vegetables, but not all veggies perform well in the juicer.
Drier plants like broccoli. Ed Malaker Last updated: Jan 13 Framing If you are building a new house or adding an addition, the wall framing may still need work. Scaffolding If the workers need to install the drywall in a difficult-to-reach place, there is a chance they will require scaffolding to do it safely, which will cost you more.
Smooth Ceiling Requiring a smooth ceiling can also increase the cost of many drywall installations because to get them completely smooth, the worker must keep adding mud and sanding it back, which takes time. Ed Malaker. Ed Malaker is an experienced writer who has brought his knowledge to a wide range of blogs, including home improvement, guitars, computer programming, tools, fitness, and pets. If you don't catch him writing, you can usually find Ed working in the garden or taking on DIY projects around the house.
Popular Posts. Related posts. Nicole Wells. Pete Ortiz. Product Reviews. OUR categories. Project ideas. Apply liberal amount of compound. If it isn't already, crease your tape perfectly in the center and reinforce the crease a couple of times. Apply the tape so that the center of the crease fits directly into the corner of the wall. Wipe away excess compound with your drywall knife. Apply at least two to three more coats using a slightly wider putty knife for each application.
Let the mud dry between each coat. It will bubble if you rush it! Many thin coats of mud will give you better results, but patience is required to let it dry. Don't apply any mud over freshly taped joints. Allow them to thoroughly dry for one day between coats unless you are using hot mud that will dry in an hour. A great idea is to use pink mud that dries white, indicating it is ready for another coat. Don't forget to apply a swipe coat over each screw. You shouldn't notice any edges after screening the mud over a joint line or screw dimple.
Make sure to hold the blade flat against the drywall and pull towards you in smooth but firm strokes. Practice on an old piece of drywall to refine your technique. Part 6. Use a pole sander with drywall sandpaper to sand the hard-to-reach joints after the final coat has dried. Don't get carried away and sand until you expose the paper. This step goes quickly because the mud will sand off easily.
Use a handheld drywall sander with fine-grit sandpaper to hit everything else. Again, caution is key here. A quick couple of scrapes over the joints is all you need. With a handheld light and pencil, go over any surface with compound on it and inspect for flaws.
The light will help you spot imperfections. Circle any problem areas with the pencil. Use a sponge sander or hand sander to briefly hit any flawed areas. Prime the walls, then sand again. Apply a coat of primer to the walls, then sand the entire area lightly using a pole sander. Although most beginners skip this step, it's critical for getting a nice, even finish and for avoiding fuzzy paper residue and fluff left over from the initial sanding. Don't over-sand. Sanding can be satisfying and fun, but sometimes people sand unnecessarily, sanding through tape.
If this happens, apply some more mud and re-sand it when it dries. James Mansfield. Use a dedicated sheetrock gun—it works on pressure, so the bit won't spin until you put pressure on the screw. Also, go with a cordless drill—you won't get caught up in the cable and it's a lot easier. You also need a good quality framing square, lots of sharp knives, and an accurate laser tape measure.
Not Helpful 0 Helpful 1. After the tape has dried, run drywall mud about a quarter inch deep on both sides of the tape. Use paper tape -- mesh will crack on the butts. Let it dry, sand out the lap marks and reapply the mud two more times, sanding between coats. Not Helpful 6 Helpful Sure, as long as you don't insulate the cottage and thereby trap moisture and breed mold.
Personally, I'd install cement board instead, as it is stronger and won't be affected by humidity. Either way, do it right. The only right way to install anything on the walls is vertically or parallel with studs, joists, or rafters if framed conventionally.
Not Helpful 6 Helpful 5. Thin cardboard strips used for shimming uneven walls before hanging drywall can often be found in the drywall section of stores. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 3. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. Drywall breaks easily, so when you carry it, don't let the middle bow down too much.
Helpful 19 Not Helpful You Might Also Like How to. How to. Expert Interview. More References 2. About This Article. Co-authored by:. Co-authors: Updated: May 27, Categories: Drywall. Article Summary X To install drywall, start by removing all of the old drywall, nails, screws, and anything else that will prevent the new drywall sheets from laying flat against the studs. Italiano: Installare il Cartongesso. Bahasa Indonesia: Memasang Gipsum.
Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read , times. The removing drywall and the installing and finishing sections were to the point and wonderfully helpful. I felt very prepared to work after reading through the instructions.
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